Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition

8000ers

Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition

  • 8,167 m
  • 46
  • challenging
  • Spring/Autumn

Overview

About this journey

Dhaulagiri, the shining white mountain, in the central-north Nepal is one of the most dramatically rising and equally fascinating climbing challenge in Nepal Himalaya. Dhaulagiri is the seventh-highest mountain in the world, with an elevation of 8,167 meters (26,795 feet) above sea level. It is located in the Dhaulagiri Himal mountain range of north-central Nepal and is part of the Himalayan mountain range. Dhaulagiri means "white mountain" in Sanskrit, and it is known for its snowy peaks and glaciers. This mountain lies in the northwestern corridor of Nepal in the Myagdi District. Mt. Dhaulagiri extends about 120km from the Kaligandaki River to the Bheri river in the west. Mt. Dhaulagiri is also the highest point of the Gandaki River Basin. The Annapurna I, which is 34 Km east of Dhaulagiri I, in between these two giants a gorge is formed, known as Kaligandaki Gorge, this gorge is the deepest gorge in the world and Kaligandaki River flows in this gorge. The first attempt to climb Dhaulagiri was made in 1954 by a Swiss team led by Albert Eggler. The team was forced to turn back just below the summit due to adverse weather conditions. Several other unsuccessful attempts were made in the following years, including one in 1958 by a Swiss-Austrian expedition led by Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Forrer. Finally, in 1960, a Swiss-Austrian expedition led by Max Eiselin succeeded in reaching the summit of Dhaulagiri. The team climbed the southeast ridge, which is now the standard route to the summit. The first ascent was made by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, and Nawang Dorje Sherpa. As all of Dhaulagiri's routes are challenging, only veterans seem to have an interest in this mountain. Climbers are attracted to the mountain for its technical challenges and the sense of accomplishment that comes with successfully reaching the summit. For many climbers, the process of training, preparing, and attempting to climb a mountain like Dhaulagiri can be a rewarding and meaningful experience in and of itself. The challenge of the climb, the camaraderie of the team, and the opportunity to test one's physical and mental limits can all be part of the appeal. The Sherpalaya, Dhaulagiri Expedition will begin in the first week of April starting in Kathmandu. You will have a couple of days for the preparation of goods and equipment and paper works. Afterward, you will take a flight to Pokhara and drive to Takam. From here you will be flying to the Italian Base camp and then trek to Dhaulagiri Basecamp. This trip suits those who have previous experiences with a few 7000m peaks or even more. We will do a frequent rotation to each camp for the best acclimatization. The basecamp is normally set at (4,750m/15,584ft), Camp I at (5,850m/19,193ft), Camp II (6,400m/20,997ft), and Camp III (7,400m/24,278ft), and Summit (8,167m/26,795ft).

Key Highlights

What makes this journey stand out

  • Ultimate Challenges

    These mountains represent the most extreme mountaineering challenges, reserved for the most experienced and physically fit climbers.

  • High Altitude

    The extreme altitude presents significant risks, including altitude sickness, and requires careful acclimatization.

  • Technical Skills and Equipment

    Climbing these peaks requires advanced technical skills and the use of specialized equipment.

  • Unparalleled Rewards

    Reaching the summit of an 8000m peak offers an immense sense of accomplishment and spectacular views.

Itinerary

Your day-by-day route

Costs Include

What's covered

  • ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by a private vehicle.

  • HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU: 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) - single room supplementary on bed and breakfast plan.

  • HOTEL IN POKHARA: 2 nights Hotel in Pokhara City (3-star category) – Sharing room on Bed and breakfast plan. (Lunch and Dinner excluded).

  • PERMITS: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Dhaulagiri, Conservation area entry permits and fee.

  • MEMBER TRANSPORTATION: (Domestic Flight): Fly from Kathmandu – Pokhara and drive from Pokhara to Marpha. (by jeep) While returning; Drive from Marpha to Pokhara (by jeep) and fly from Pokhara to Kathmandu, as per itinerary.

  • FOOD AND LODGING DURING THE TREK: Three (3) meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), including tea and coffee, will be provided, along with accessible accommodation at hotels, lodges, or tea houses (sharing) during the trek. Hygienic foods will be served throughout the entire trek. (To upgrade to a room with an attached washroom, inform us earlier. Extra cost applies).

  • HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA: 1 veteran and government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.

Costs Exclude

Not included

  • AIR FARE: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).

  • NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE: Nepalese Visa fee is $125 USD for 90 Days.

  • LUNCH & DINNER: Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu & Pokhara (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).

  • EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU & POKHARA: Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu & Pokhara. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.

  • INSURANCE POLICY: Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high-altitude rescue, air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory (Send us a copy of your insurance policy- before your arrival.)

  • PERSONAL EXPENSES: Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).

  • SUMMIT BONUS : Summit bonus for each climbing Sherpa- Minimum $ 1500 USD.

Essential Tips

Things worth knowing before you go

Elite Mountaineering Experience

Climbing 8000-meter peaks is the pinnacle of mountaineering. You must have extensive experience on multiple 7000m peaks and a proven track record of high-altitude success. Consider this the "doctorate" level of mountaineering.

Exceptional Physical and Mental Fortitude

8000m expeditions push the human body and mind to their limits. Prepare for extreme cold, low oxygen, and grueling physical exertion. Mental resilience, determination, and the ability to endure suffering are essential.

World-Class Expedition Team

Select an expedition operator with impeccable credentials, highly experienced guides, and a strong Sherpa support team. Your life depends on their expertise and judgment.

Meticulous Preparation and Planning

Every detail matters. Train specifically for the challenges of the chosen peak. Research weather patterns, route conditions, and potential hazards. Leave no room for error in your gear selection or logistics.

Embrace the Death Zone

Above 8000 meters, you enter the "Death Zone" where the human body cannot survive indefinitely. Be prepared for the psychological and physiological effects of extreme altitude. Supplemental oxygen is typically used.

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