Mt. Makalu Expedition

8000ers

Mt. Makalu Expedition

  • 8,485 m
  • 50
  • challenging
  • Spring/Autumn

Overview

About this journey

Makalu, an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid, is the fifth highest mountain in the world at 8,485m (27,838ft). Mount Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world, with an elevation of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) above sea level. It is located in the Himalayas, on the border between Nepal and China. Mount Makalu is known for its isolated location and its distinctive pyramid-shaped peak, which makes it a visually striking mountain. At the base of Mt. Makalu, there lies a natural wonder: The Barun Valley. This valley facilitates stunning elevated waterfalls falling inside the deep gorges, diverse species of flora and fauna with rich cultures of ethnic communities like Sherpa and Kirat. Although this area is somewhat isolated, it is for sure that, every visitor whose every step here will take a memorable reminiscence with them for their lifetime. Mt. Makalu was first summited on 15 May 1955, by a French team including Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy led by Jean Franco. The team climbed the mountain via the Northeast Ridge, which is the most commonly used route to the summit. Since the first climb to the top, several successful attempts had been made to the top of the peak. South East and the North West Ridges are the most prominent compared to other. Among these two, the North Western ridge route is used by most mountaineers to reach the top of the peak. Mt. Makalu Expedition in Nepal is full of adventures as well as dangers too. The Russian team scaled the western route, which is considered the most dangerous route, in 1997. They reach the top on 21st May 1997 following the most challenging route. Climbing Makalu is a significant challenge, and it requires a high level of physical fitness, technical climbing skills, and mental fortitude. The mountain is known for its steep and challenging Northeast Ridge route, and the thin air and extreme altitude make it a demanding climb. However, for those who are able and willing to undertake the challenge, the experience of standing on the summit of Mt. Makalu can be extremely rewarding. The Sherpalaya, Makalu Expedition will begin in the second week of April starting in Kathmandu. You will have a couple of days for the preparation of goods and equipment and paper works. Afterward, you will take a flight to Tumlingtar and drive to Num. From here your treks begin to Makalu basecamp. This trip suits those who have previous experiences with a few 7000m peaks or even more. We will do a frequent rotation to each camp for the best acclimatization. The advance basecamp is normally set at (5,600m/18,372ft), Camp I at (6,100m/20,013ft), Camp II at (6,500m/21,325ft), Camp III at (7,400m/24,278ft), Camp IV (7,800m/25,590ft) and Summit (8,485m/27,838ft).

Key Highlights

What makes this journey stand out

  • Ultimate Challenges

    These mountains represent the most extreme mountaineering challenges, reserved for the most experienced and physically fit climbers.

  • High Altitude

    The extreme altitude presents significant risks, including altitude sickness, and requires careful acclimatization.

  • Technical Skills and Equipment

    Climbing these peaks requires advanced technical skills and the use of specialized equipment.

  • Unparalleled Rewards

    Reaching the summit of an 8000m peak offers an immense sense of accomplishment and spectacular views.

Itinerary

Your day-by-day route

Costs Include

What's covered

  • ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.

  • HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU: 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) - single room on bed and breakfast plan.

  • PERMIT: Expedition Royalty and permit fee of Nepal Government to climb Mt. MAKALU, MAKALU BARUN National Park entry permit and fee.

  • MEMBER TRANSPORTATION: (Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu – TUMLINGTAR and drive to Num: while returning drive from Num to Tumlingtar and fly from Tumlingtar - Kathmandu, as per itinerary, as per itinerary.

  • FOOD AND LODGING: 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/TENT during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, soft drinks, and juice will be served during the entire expedition using helicopter flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.

  • HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA: 1 veteran and government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.

  • OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2): Summit Oxygen cylinder: 4 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 2 oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa.

Costs Exclude

Not included

  • AIR FARE: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).

  • NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE: Nepalese Visa fee is $125 USD for 90 Days.

  • LUNCH & DINNER: Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).

  • EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU: Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, or domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.

  • INSURANCE POLICY: Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high-altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory

  • PERSONAL EXPENSES: Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).

  • SUMMIT BONUS : Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 1500 USD.

Essential Tips

Things worth knowing before you go

Elite Mountaineering Experience

Climbing 8000-meter peaks is the pinnacle of mountaineering. You must have extensive experience on multiple 7000m peaks and a proven track record of high-altitude success. Consider this the "doctorate" level of mountaineering.

Exceptional Physical and Mental Fortitude

8000m expeditions push the human body and mind to their limits. Prepare for extreme cold, low oxygen, and grueling physical exertion. Mental resilience, determination, and the ability to endure suffering are essential.

World-Class Expedition Team

Select an expedition operator with impeccable credentials, highly experienced guides, and a strong Sherpa support team. Your life depends on their expertise and judgment.

Meticulous Preparation and Planning

Every detail matters. Train specifically for the challenges of the chosen peak. Research weather patterns, route conditions, and potential hazards. Leave no room for error in your gear selection or logistics.

Embrace the Death Zone

Above 8000 meters, you enter the "Death Zone" where the human body cannot survive indefinitely. Be prepared for the psychological and physiological effects of extreme altitude. Supplemental oxygen is typically used.

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