Mt. Baruntse Expedition

7000ers

Mt. Baruntse Expedition

  • 7,129 m
  • 35
  • challenging
  • Spring/Autumn

Overview

About this journey

Standing at the head of Barun valley, Baruntse is a hidden jewel of a 7000er that overlooks two giants to east and west – Everest and Makalu! Baruntse is one of the beautiful peaks in eastern Nepal, a considerable and symmetrical snow peak, that has four dominant ridges and four summits. It is bounded on the south by Hunku Glacier, on the east by the Barun Glacier, on the north by Num Ri and Cho Polu, and the northwest by the Kali Himal and Imja Tse Glacier and on the west by Amphu I peak. At 7,152 meters (23,465 feet), Baruntse lies in the heart of the Himalayan Giants of Nepal and has a higher summit success rate than other comparable peaks. Baruntse was summited for the first time in 1954 by a Kiwi party led by Sir Ed Hillary putting Bill Beaven, George Lowe, Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow on the summit on May 29. The route pioneered by the expedition the SE Ridge is the standard route to the peak to this day. The Southeast Ridge of Baruntse is a bit difficult because of its straightforward direct approach to climb but is attainable. There are hard sections of 50-degree slopes with prominent ice cliffs that pose a technical challenge with risks of avalanche. But because of the fixed ropes and with guidance of our veteran climbing guides, the mountain could be negotiated safely. It is mostly climbed in spring season. However, some climbers have reached the top of this mountain in the autumn season too. Our expedition guides and climbing Sherpas are well-experienced and have a lot of practical experience in Himalayan 7000 and 8000 meter mountains. They have been in this field for the last two decades. So, they could give all the necessary guidance to take all precautions and expected dangers and how to tackle them. This enhances our expeditors to full confidence and courage.

Key Highlights

What makes this journey stand out

  • Excellent Mountaineering Experience

    These peaks offer a challenging mountaineering experience, suitable for climbers with some high-altitude experience.

  • Fewer Risks than 8000ers

    While still challenging, these mountains generally pose fewer risks than 8000m peaks.

  • Preparation and Acclimatization

    Good physical preparation and proper acclimatization are essential.

  • Panoramic Views

    7000m peaks offer panoramic views of the surrounding mountain ranges.

Itinerary

Your day-by-day route

Costs Include

What's covered

  • ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.

  • HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU: 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) - single room on bed and breakfast plan.

  • WELCOME DINNER: One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office’s Staff

  • PERMITS: Expedition Royalty and a permit fee of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Baruntse, Sagarmatha / Makalu National Park, and Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entry permit and fee.

  • MEMBER TRANSPORTATION: - (Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu – Lukla and while returning Lukla - Kathmandu, as per itinerary.

  • FOOD AND LODGING: 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, and soft drinks will be served during the entire expedition using helicopter flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.

  • BONUS: Carry Bonus of Sherpas and Route Fixing Charges.

  • HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS): High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) and (C3). Group climbing gears, fixed, and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.

Costs Exclude

Not included

  • AIR FARE: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).

  • NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE: Nepalese Visa fee is $ 125 USD for 90 Days.

  • LUNCH & DINNER: Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).

  • EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU: Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.

  • INSURANCE POLICY: Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory

  • PERSONAL EXPENSES: Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).

  • SUMMIT BONUS : Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 1200 USD.

  • TIPS : Calculate some tips for Basecamp and high camp staff – Minimum 350 USD.

Essential Tips

Things worth knowing before you go

Extensive High-Altitude Experience

Climbing 7000+ meter peaks requires significant prior experience on lower 6000m peaks and preferably some 8000m experience. This builds the necessary acclimatization knowledge and technical skills.

Advanced Mountaineering Skills

Master advanced techniques in ice climbing, rock climbing, mixed climbing, and crevasse rescue. Be proficient with using crampons, ice axes, ropes, and other technical equipment.

Rigorous Physical Conditioning

7000+ meter peaks demand exceptional physical fitness. Engage in intense training focused on endurance, strength, and cardiovascular fitness, including training at altitude if possible.

Comprehensive Acclimatization Strategy

Develop a detailed acclimatization plan with your expedition team. Understand the signs and symptoms of altitude sickness and be prepared to descend if necessary. Supplemental oxygen may be considered.

High-Quality Gear and Equipment

Invest in the best quality mountaineering gear you can afford. Ensure it is appropriate for the specific conditions of the mountain you are climbing. Test all gear before the expedition.

Experienced Expedition Team

Choose a reputable expedition company with experienced guides and Sherpas who have successfully summited the peak. A strong and cohesive team is crucial for safety and success.

Contingency Planning

Be prepared for unexpected challenges such as bad weather, injuries, or logistical problems. Have backup plans in place and be flexible with your summit plans.

Respect for the Mountain

7000+ meter peaks are inherently dangerous. Respect the power of nature and be prepared to turn back if conditions are unfavorable. The summit is never worth risking your life.

Recommended

Mt. Kanchenjunga Expedition Cover Image

Mt. Kanchenjunga Expedition

51 Days

Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition Cover Image

Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition

30 Days

Ready when you are

Your Himalayan chapter starts with a conversation.

Tell us where you want to go — we'll handle the rest.

Plan Your Trip WhatsApp